The Return of the Anti-Prada Supermodel

The rise, fall and rise again, of the supermodel as a pop culture phenomenon

by Cian Moss

Image by Anh Huynh

What happened to 90s and 2000s supermodels? How did we go from Shalom Harlow to “nepo baby” domination? The answer lies within the creative direction of Miuccia Prada. Throughout the 90s and into the early 2000s we saw models such as Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Gisele Bundchen, and others bring drama and personality to each runway they stepped foot on. But as Prada grew in dominance, so did their runway regulations. Prada models all looked the same, had generic walks, and seeped any diversity from a casting lineup. Fashion executives preferred this. 

During the early 2000s, headlines began to read “Kate Moss Smokes Cigarette on Runway” instead of “Hermes Debuts New Birkin Style.” This shift of focus from clothes to models forced an immediate desaturation of the industry. Designers began enacting the “Prada Effect,” casting models with blonde hair, slender figures, and Slavic features in order to keep headlines off of standout models. It was the era of Russian dolls. The modeling industry was no longer a spectacle of stars such as Naomi Campbell and Yasmin Ghauri, but of a more generic archetype that pulled the headlines away from individuality and onto the clothes. This “Prada Effect” led into the 2010s, with Victoria's Secret being one of the only brands that highlighted its models.   

Throughout 2024 we have seen the collapse of the “Prada Effect” due to the rise of models such as Alex Consani and Anok Yai. When Yai closed the Vetements Spring 2025 show by sprinting down the runway in a bridal gown, or when Consani strutted down Balenciaga’s Pre-Fall 2024 show with big prosthetic lips and a bright yellow wig, many were taken back to early 2000s runways. Both models brought individualism, spontaneity, and amusement to some of the biggest shows of the season. 

With the attention Consani and Yai garner each time they step on the runway, it is clear the supermodel as a pop culture phenomenon will be brought back within the coming years.