The History of the Tabi Shoe: Taking a Look at the Margiela Archives
From the Tabi shoe’s traditional Japanese heritage to its fashion debut in 1989, this split-toe shoe has revamped footwear aesthetics in the fashion world
by Rachel Yu
As ballet flats become increasingly popular in street style, people are discovering the various types and styles of the shoe. But there is one in particular that persistently catches eyes — the Tabi ballet flat.
Maison Margiela, a Parisian luxury fashion house, holds an array of archival Tabi pieces with different takes on the style of the shoe executed through ballet flats, boots, loafers and even sneakers.
The exhibition of the ballet flat includes a side seam made of soft nappa leather, a small knot on top of the shoe, and its distinct split-toe design at the front. Margiela took inspiration from the traditional Tabi split-toe design prominent in Japanese culture in the 15th century.
The Tabi style was originally designed as a sock, with the big toe separating itself from the rest to emphasize holistic and cognitive balance as well as a sense of kinship and connection with oneself. Initially, the sock was only available to the upper class, but after trade links expanded to China, the sock became accessible to everyone.
With the style’s increasing popularity, the Tabi shoe quickly became the conventional footwear worn by many Japanese blue-collar workers. The color of the Tabi signified the social class of the wearer: gold or purple tones represented wealth and hierarchy whereas navy blue shades were designated for the commoner.
Martin Margiela, the founder of the couture house, initially introduced the Tabi shoe to the fashion world when he released his Spring/Summer 1989 Runway Collection at the Café de la Gare in Paris. Margiela had his models trample down the runway wearing his striking, eccentric pieces, including his first design of the Tabi boot displayed in shades of pink, black, and white. He even had some of his models step through red paint in Tabi boots, leaving behind footsteps on the runway.
Margiela took inspiration from designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, experimenting with different color palettes, shapes, and textures in the same ways they did, while simultaneously adopting a rebellious mindset toward the fashion industry. The brand itself emanates the idea of defying stylistic norms and stereotypes, stepping out of the box of mainstream trends. The shoes designed by Margiela represent a sense of stylistic freedom and singularity.
This iconic show made Tabi history, introducing this style of shoe to the Western commercial world and increasing its popularity. Since its debut, the Tabi shoe has appeared in modern street-style fashion aesthetics. With a heightened interest in this split-toe design, people have been able to style the shoe in their own creative ways: both elegantly and casually. Despite its initial role as a traditional and cultural shoe, Margiela added his own unique flair to the Tabi shoe, allowing it to make its impact in the fashion world.
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